Designer Clustering - DSM
16:00When looking at designer clustering, it's interesting to consider Dover Street Market, for it's recent unexpected move to Haymarket, and the way brands are laid out in-store. The old location on Dover Street has become crowded with designer stores like McQueen and Stella McCartney, which isn't really what DSM is about. The move to Haymarket could be a way to distance the store from more mainstream brands, and go back to the individuality that it's so well known for. Also, in an interview with the vice-president Dickon Bowden for the Financial Times, he states that the Mayfair rent was too much, and although the Piccadilly Circus rent is just as bad, you get double the floor space. Rei Kawakubo and DSM are known for breaking rules and taking risks, so the move does make sense. The store is so well respected, and seen as a place not only to buy from, but to experience. It's almost turned into a social activity, just popping into Dover Street Market for some inspiration. I always feel inspired when I visit, in my own work and to boost my creativity. Also, seeing all the amazing clothes really makes me want to work hard so I can one day walk around head-to-toe in their brands.
This admiration means the customers are loyal enough to travel to a less fashionable area just to go there. In the Financial Times article, Adrian Joffe, president of CDG, says that the Westminster council didn't want it to look like a shop from the road, so they switched the entrance to the side; blocking the front with white egg sculptures. Those in the know, know that it's a whole other world in there, and others will be none the wiser that it's a store. The building also used to be Burberry's headquarters, so there is some fashion history there. I think the new store is definitely more welcoming in it's atmosphere. I remember going into the old location with the intention to buy a CDG top, and having to be buzzed in, which really intimidated 17 year-old me.
https://www.ft.com/content/55c2141e-b488-11e5-b147-e5e5bba42e51 - Financial Times article, a really interesting read!
all images from london.doverstreetmarket.com
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