Designer Clustering - DSM

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When looking at designer clustering, it's interesting to consider Dover Street Market, for it's recent unexpected move to Haymarket, and the way brands are laid out in-store. The old location on Dover Street has become crowded with designer stores like McQueen and Stella McCartney, which isn't really what DSM is about. The move to Haymarket could be a way to distance the store from more mainstream brands, and go back to the individuality that it's so well known for. Also, in an interview with the vice-president Dickon Bowden for the Financial Times, he states that the Mayfair rent was too much, and although the Piccadilly Circus rent is just as bad, you get double the floor space. Rei Kawakubo and DSM are known for breaking rules and taking risks, so the move does make sense. The store is so well respected, and seen as a place not only to buy from, but to experience. It's almost turned into a social activity, just popping into Dover Street Market for some inspiration. I always feel inspired when I visit, in my own work and to boost my creativity. Also, seeing all the amazing clothes really makes me want to work hard so I can one day walk around head-to-toe in their brands.

This admiration means the customers are loyal enough to travel to a less fashionable area just to go there. In the Financial Times article, Adrian Joffe, president of CDG, says that the Westminster council didn't want it to look like a shop from the road, so they switched the entrance to the side; blocking the front with white egg sculptures. Those in the know, know that it's a whole other world in there, and others will be none the wiser that it's a store.  The building also used to be Burberry's headquarters, so there is some fashion history there. I think the new store is definitely more welcoming in it's atmosphere. I remember going into the old location with the intention to buy a CDG top, and having to be buzzed in, which really intimidated 17 year-old me.




When looking at the floor plan, in both London and New York locations, the way the brands are placed is so interesting. In New York for example, on one floor you will find Gucci, Supreme, and Vetements. In a way, these are the 3 big brands of the year to the younger generation, as I know these are seen as being the coolest to own, who are making real waves in the fashion world. DSM can get away with placing brands next to ones that you wouldn't expect, because their consumer is likely to appreciate all the different aesthetics, and will willingly mix them to create a personal style which is unique. I believe that this decade has really shown a shift in people having set looks; it's no longer important to have a style you can categorise. With the rise of social media, people can gather inspiration from all over of all different styles, with the ability to throw them together and see what happens. I know I could shop in Supreme, Vetements, and Gucci, and still come out looking like my own personal style, even though each brand has it's own definable look. I think the DSM customers also choose to go there instead of Selfridges and Harrods because they know it's all about discovering new brands, and staying away from the big prestigious fashion houses. So the fact that streetwear, conceptual art garments like CDG, and new designers like Molly Goddard, are all on the same floor, is a positive rather than a hinderance to their shopping experience. Dover Street Market will always be ahead of the curve in their visual merchandising and their marketing strategies, and I'm glad we have their alternative vision of fashion.


https://www.ft.com/content/55c2141e-b488-11e5-b147-e5e5bba42e51 - Financial Times article, a really interesting read!

all images from london.doverstreetmarket.com

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